Alexander

28°40′N · 17°52′W

Male escort in La Palma

Green by day, infinite by night.

La Palma is one of the steepest islands on the planet: within a few kilometres it rises from the sea to 2,426 metres at the Roque de los Muchachos, where a legally protected sky is home to some of the largest telescopes in the world. It was the first Starlight Reserve on Earth, and in 2021 it saw the birth of Spain’s youngest volcano, Tajogaite.

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The telescopes of the Roque de los Muchachos above a sea of clouds at sunset

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Not to be missed

The Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente above a sea of clouds

Caldera de Taburiente

An immense amphitheatre eight kilometres across, carpeted with Canary pines, where streams and waterfalls run all year round.

The telescopes of the Roque de los Muchachos under the Milky Way

Roque de los Muchachos

At 2,426 metres, above the clouds, the white domes of the great telescopes scan one of the clearest skies on the planet.

The Los Tilos waterfall among ferns and laurel forest

Los Tilos

A damp, intensely green laurel forest that has survived since the Tertiary period: this is where the island’s Biosphere Reserve was born.

The Fuencaliente salt pans from above, with their coloured pools and the lighthouse by the sea

Fuencaliente

Two lighthouses, one historic and one modern, rise beside expanses of white and pink salt that glitter between the lava rock and the blue of the ocean.

Landscapes and nature

  1. Ruta de los Volcanes

    Twenty-two kilometres of high ridge linking a string of craters and lava flows on Cumbre Vieja, moving from the pines to crests of black ash.

  2. Tajogaite

    The young volcanic cone born in 2021: a scar of black rock and cinders that redraws the geography and landscape of the west-central part of the island.

  3. Charco Azul

    Natural lava-rock pools sheltered from the waves, for swimming in crystal-clear turquoise water, with convenient walkways and facilities.

  4. Playa de Nogales

    A long black-sand beach beneath a cliff covered in vegetation, pounded by the waves of the Atlantic.

  5. Cueva Bonita

    A spectacular sea cave opening onto the ocean, famous for the gold and turquoise reflections that the sunset light casts on its rock walls.

  6. Mirador del Time

    A terrace six hundred metres up in Tijarafe, suspended over the ravine and looking out over the farmland of the Valle de Aridane and the Atlantic coast.

  7. Cueva de las Palomas

    An imposing lava tube formed by the 1949 eruption, which today you can walk through with a helmet and torch to explore the depths of the earth.

  8. Cascada de Colores

    A rock wall inside the Caldera de Taburiente, where iron-rich water and moss stain the stone in shades of ochre and green.

Outline © OpenStreetMap

Art, history and culture

  • Historic centre Santa Cruz de La Palma Founded in 1493, this elegant capital overlooking the harbour is famous for its colonial façades and its traditional, richly carved wooden balconies above the sea.
  • Museum El Barco de la Virgen A masonry caravel stranded in the middle of the town, a replica of Columbus’s Santa María: inside, the naval museum.
  • Historic centre Los Llanos de Aridane A lively town in the west with tree-lined avenues and historic squares, graced by large modern murals that decorate the walls of its buildings.
  • Archaeology Parque Arqueológico de Belmaco A group of ten natural caves holding the first petroglyphs discovered in the Canary Islands, with mysterious spirals carved into the stone by the ancient Benahoaritas.
  • Church The church of Tijarafe A seventeenth-century Mudéjar-style church with white walls, a bell gable at the back and a monumental Baroque altarpiece.

Unwinding together

Spas and thermal baths

  • The spa at Hacienda de Abajo
    The spa at Hacienda de Abajo Tazacorte An intimate, exclusive spa set within the historic walls of a wealthy seventeenth-century sugar estate, offering a sauna, Turkish bath and tailored treatments in the silence of a lush botanical garden.

The island, month by month

Choose a month on the timeline.

February

Almendro en Flor

When the almond trees of Puntagorda are covered in white and pink, the village comes out into the square to celebrate.

Carnival Monday

Los Indianos

Santa Cruz dresses all in white, like the emigrants who came home rich from Cuba, and dances through the streets under clouds of talcum powder.

May

Fiestas de la Cruz

In the streets of Santa Cruz and Breña Alta, the crosses are dressed in jewels and flowers.

June

Corpus Christi in Villa de Mazo

The streets of Villa de Mazo are covered with arches and carpets patterned in flowers, seeds and leaves.

July

Bajada de la Virgen de las Nieves

The historic lustral festivities in which, every five years, the faithful accompany the statue of the patron saint from her mountain sanctuary to the centre of the capital, brought to life by the famous and surreal Dance of the Dwarfs.

Ogni cinque anni · la prossima nel 2030

September

El Diablo de Tijarafe

A century-old celebration that every year on 7 September turns the main square into a pyrotechnic frenzy, as a devilish figure dances through the crowd spraying fireworks until the final explosion of its head, which symbolises the triumph of good.

Every week

Weekends
The Puntagorda farmers’ market
Weekends
The Villa de Mazo market

At the table

Michelin stars Repsol Suns

El Sitio

Tazacorte

An elegant dining room in Tazacorte awarded a Repsol Sun, where chef José Alberto Díaz serves signature Canarian haute cuisine overlooking the ocean.

Casa Osmunda

Recommended Michelin

Breña Alta

A renowned restaurant in Breña Alta holding a Repsol Sun, housed in a charming nineteenth-century colonial house that was once a roadside inn for travellers, where traditional Canarian dishes are creatively reinterpreted.

La Palma makes me think of everything that deserves to be observed with patience. Deep forests, imposing craters, paths through vegetation that is almost exuberant. A lush landscape that keeps surprising you until the curtain falls, and the night overwhelms you with one of the most beautiful starry skies in the world. A place where we can stop to gaze at the Universe, small before such immensity, and where even words draw closer.

La Palma, with me

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