Alexander

28°16′N · 16°36′W

Male escort in Tenerife

The kingdom of Teide.

Tenerife is the largest of the Canary Islands and the highest in Spain: Teide rises to 3,715 metres and, measured from the ocean floor, is the third-tallest volcano on Earth. Around the giant, the island changes character from one side to the other, with the green, Atlantic north of the historic towns and the dry, luminous south of the beaches, while at its centre the national park, a World Heritage Site, opens onto a volcanic desert two thousand metres above sea level.

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Roque Cinchado and Teide under the Milky Way, above the sea of clouds

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Not to be missed

The summit of Teide rising out of the sea of clouds, in the pink light of sunset

Mount Teide

The roof of Spain: at sunset the volcano casts a perfect pyramid-shaped shadow across the clouds, and when darkness falls the sky fills with stars as in few other places on Earth.

The village of Masca clinging to the rock, between the walls of the gorge

Masca

Stone houses clinging to a spur of rock, above a gorge that drops down to the sea between palm trees and sheer walls.

The cliffs of Los Gigantes dropping sheer into the ocean

Los Gigantes

Giant cliffs six hundred metres high plunge into the Atlantic, in the marine corridor where pilot whales swim.

A path through the moss-covered trees of the Anaga laurel forest

Anaga

Sharp ridges clothed in laurel forest, the damp woodland that lives on the clouds brought by the trade winds: below, villages reached by footpaths and black-sand beaches beneath the roques.

Landscapes and nature

  1. Las Teresitas

    A golden beach made from Saharan sand, its sea sheltered by a breakwater, in front of the fishing village of San Andrés.

  2. Playa del Duque

    Calm water and pale sand on the most elegant stretch of Costa Adeje, among white parasols and the gardens of the grand hotels.

  3. The Dragon Tree of Icod

    Seventeen metres of candelabra branches: the largest dragon tree in the world, defying botany.

  4. Cueva del Viento

    Galleries thousands of years old, carved by lava beneath Icod, once a sacred burial place of the Guanches.

  5. Punta de Teno

    The lighthouse at the far western tip, where the cliffs challenge the outline of La Gomera.

  6. Paisaje Lunar

    Pale tuff pinnacles shaped by wind and rain, in the pine forest above Vilaflor: a corner of the moon lent to the island’s peaks.

  7. Barranco del Infierno

    A path deep between sheer rock walls: the route that climbs the canyon to the waterfall.

  8. Malpaís de Güímar

    A desert of ash and black stone, trapped at the edge of the open sea.

Outline © OpenStreetMap

Art, history and culture

Museums and theatres

  • Santa Cruz Teatro Guimerá The historic theatre of the Canary Islands since 1851: an Italian-style auditorium with horseshoe tiers of boxes, in the centre of Santa Cruz. The oldest stage in the archipelago holds the nineteenth-century soul of the city.
  • Santa Cruz Auditorio de Tenerife A great sail of white concrete by Santiago Calatrava bends towards the Atlantic at the entrance to the port of Santa Cruz: the avant-garde temple of great concerts.
  • Santa Cruz TEA Tenerife Espacio de las Artes The island’s museum of contemporary art. Concrete volumes pierced by light, designed by Herzog & de Meuron along the barranco of Santa Cruz.

Monuments

  • La Laguna La Concepción in La Laguna The city’s first church, born with its founding: the eighteenth-century tower rises above the rooftops and has become the symbol of La Laguna.
  • Candelaria On the square before the Marian basilica on the Atlantic shore, the nine bronze sculptures of the menceyes honour the island’s ancient kingdoms.
  • Puerto de la Cruz On the seafront of the old port, César Manrique turned the coast into a water garden: Lago Martiánez, seawater pools among volcanic rocks, palm trees and sculptures.
  • Güímar Pirámides de Güímar Six stepped pyramids of lava stone: an open riddle between Guanche myth and farming use.

Villages and historic centres

  • San Cristóbal de La Laguna Stone streets, manor houses and churches: the city that served as a model for the colonial cities of the Americas.
  • La Orotava A hillside town of noble palaces and the Casa de los Balcones: an elegant seventeenth-century mansion, where carved Canary pine adorns timeless courtyards.
  • Garachico It was the richest port on the island until, in 1706, the volcano overwhelmed the old harbour and turned it into a maze of mirrored pools.

Unwinding together

Clubs by the sea

  • The Beach Club
    The Beach Club Guía de Isora · The Ritz-Carlton Abama A golden paradise hidden beneath the cliff, where the ocean seems to have stopped to rest.
  • I letti bianchi del Kaluna Beach Club al tramonto, con la piscina a sfioro e il porto di Puerto Colón sullo sfondo
    Kaluna Beach Club Costa Adeje Overlooking the Atlantic, in the heart of Costa Adeje, it is an oasis of elegance and attention to detail, where music and personalised cocktails accompany Tenerife’s evocative sunsets.
  • Monkey Beach Club
    Monkey Beach Club Playa de las Américas Music and cocktails above the sand of Troya: a terrace overlooking the sea, to watch the sun fade out behind La Gomera.

Spas and thermal baths

  • Aqua Club Termal
    Aqua Club Termal Costa Adeje Six thousand square metres devoted to water: an eighteen-stage circuit of hydromassage pools, a flotation pool and a Roman bath.
  • Bahía Wellness Retreat
    Bahía Wellness Retreat Costa Adeje · Bahía del Duque Private suites, aromatic herb gardens, volcanic stone and Atlantic water in the treatments.
  • The spa at The Ritz-Carlton Abama
    The spa at The Ritz-Carlton Abama Guía de Isora Hydrotherapy pools, the hammam and a treatment menu as long as a whole afternoon.

The island, month by month

Choose a month on the timeline.

February

Carnaval de Santa Cruz

The largest carnival in Spain: weeks of floats, murgas and dancing in the streets, ending in the open-air party of the Carnaval de Día.

May

Fiestas de Mayo

Santa Cruz celebrates its founding with music in the squares and the Baile de Magos, when the whole city dances in traditional dress.

June

Corpus Christi in La Orotava

In front of the town hall, a huge carpet of coloured earth from Teide takes shape, drawn by hand grain by grain.

June

Romería de San Isidro

Decorated carts, oxen, traditional costumes and wine offered to passers-by, along the steep streets of La Orotava.

June

Noche de San Juan

The magical night of the witches, with bonfires by the sea and the traditional bathing of the goats in the harbour of Puerto de la Cruz.

July

Virgen del Carmen

The fishermen of Puerto de la Cruz carry the Virgin out to sea by boat, followed by a festive flotilla.

August

La Candelaria

A long walk through the night under the stars to bring a vow to the black Virgin of the sea.

Late November

San Andrés

In Icod people race at full speed on wooden boards, the tablas, down the steepest streets in town, while the new wine is uncorked.

Every week

Every day
The Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África, in Santa Cruz
Weekends
The farmers’ market in Tacoronte
Autumn and winter
The guachinches of the north, the winegrowers’ taverns

At the table

Michelin stars Repsol Suns

El Rincón de Juan Carlos

Adeje · Royal Hideaway Corales

Avant-garde flavours and outstanding ingredients from the talented Padrón brothers.

M.B.

Guía de Isora · The Ritz-Carlton Abama

The Canarian outpost of Martín Berasategui, the chef with the most stars in Spain, amid the gardens of Abama.

Nub

Adeje · Bahía del Duque

Italy, Latin America and the Canary Islands in conversation on the same menu, at Bahía del Duque.

San-Hô

Adeje · Royal Hideaway Corales

Japan meets Peru in a Nikkei kitchen overlooking the ocean.

Il Bocconcino

Adeje · Royal Hideaway Corales

Flavours of the Italian tradition reinvented with flair and outstanding produce in Adeje.

Donaire

Adeje

High Canarian cuisine by Jesús Camacho, awarded a star, at GF Victoria in Adeje.

Haydée by Víctor Suárez

Adeje · Gran Tacande

Víctor Suárez and his regained star.

Taste 1973

Playa de las Américas · Villa Cortés

Dry-aged fish, more than fifty Canarian cheeses and a menu that tells the story of the island before the Castilian conquest.

El Taller Seve Díaz

Puerto de la Cruz

The genius of Seve Díaz wins a Michelin star with intimate, meticulous cooking.

La Cúpula

Adeje

Franco-Canarian fusion awarded two Repsol Suns: the excellence of chef Rubén Cabrera in Adeje.

Special mentions

  • A guachinche table with potatoes, mojo, meat and red wine, overlooking the vineyards
    The guachinches The north The honest side of the table: wine they make themselves, wooden tables and paper tablecloths. Home cooking in all its rustic splendour.

Tenerife captivates me with its contrasts: the elegant coast of Adeje, where time slows down at the edge of the sea, and up above, Teide, which towers over the island and at night is adorned with stars. Wherever desire takes us, I will be by your side, and the landscape will be the backdrop to our closeness.

Tenerife, with me

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